Another Friday - another list. After months of searching for alternatives to the most famous watches in the industry, we decided to change the topic.
Last week, the WatchTested team discussed forgotten watches of the 1980s, and we thought: “Why not make a top 5 for this Friday?” Many of us were born in the late '70s and early '80s and grew up in an era of abundance. How much does this reflect in the five models we chose? Let's find out.
Understanding the motto of the 1980s - “the bigger, the better” - says a lot about the style of that time. Bright colors, exaggerated silhouettes, and bold self-expression made the decade extravagant and provocative. The '80s also saw many events in style and culture. When I think of the 1980s, I remember worlds from famous Bret Easton Ellis novels like “The Informers” and “American Psycho”, as well as John Hughes movies - The Breakfast Club and Ferris Bueller's Day Off. Ellis’s books also touch on themes of luxury and style. As many know, in American Psycho, Patrick Bateman wears a two-tone Rolex Datejust. Is this model in our list? Let's see which five watches from the 1980s we selected!
Omega Constellation Manhattan
Our first choice is the first-generation Omega Constellation Manhattan. Robert-Jan and I have a real passion for the original Constellation Manhattan, introduced by Omega in 1982. We own several models from the first series and continue to seek those not yet in our collection. Our love for the Constellation Manhattan is deeply connected to the design and construction of the watch. In a detailed article on this model, I previously wrote that I considered the style and culture of the 1980s terrible. But, being a child of the late '70s who grew up in the '80s, it’s hard to deny the influence of that era’s style on me.
Omega introduced the Constellation Manhattan as a flagship series, and it immediately stood out. Firstly, the design with four “claws” positioned on the sides of the case is unique. The case has a diameter of just under 33 mm, which seems small for men's watches. However, thanks to the smoothly fitting bracelet, the watch appears larger. The design was crafted by young Omega designer Carol Didisheim, while the idea of the claws came from Pierre-André Aellen, the brand’s product director at the time.
Unique Design with a Functional Purpose
The idea of the claws occurred to Aellen during a visit to New York, where he saw similar fixtures for a frameless mirror in a hotel bathroom. They played a crucial role in implementing the unique printing technology under the sapphire glass. The black ring with hour markers is applied to the inside of the sapphire glass, held by four claws. Thus, the construction is primarily functional and simultaneously serves as a signature style element. Additionally, it allowed Omega to make the case ultra-thin - just 6.5 mm. This design was used only in the first generation of the Constellation Manhattan; later, the claws became purely decorative.
Inside the case of the first series was the quartz caliber 1422. A year later, it was replaced by the new caliber 1431 - the world’s first quartz movement with a stepper motor servo mechanism, which simplified the use of functions and saved battery life. In 1984, Omega added a mechanical version with caliber 1111, which was produced for only two years and is now extremely rare.
Price Increase on Omega Constellation Manhattan
During its short production period, Omega released several versions of the Constellation Manhattan. The first were two steel models with champagne and black dials. Actor Robert Wagner wore the black dial in humorous Bond-style commercials. Two-tone models were offered with gold and black dials. Finally, a fully gold version with a gold dial was released - a true symbol of the excessive style of the '80s. Prices for original Constellation Manhattan have risen over time. Finding a model in good condition for less than €1,000 is a great fortune. Steel and two-tone quartz versions in excellent condition cost around €1,500. In return, you get not just an iconic watch of the 1980s, but a uniquely designed and constructed accessory.
Rolex Datejust ref. 16013
If the first choice was obvious, the second is not much more difficult. The Rolex Datejust ref. 16013 debuted in 1977, technically belonging to the '70s. However, the two-tone Datejust with a fluted bezel on a Jubilee bracelet became a symbol of both the '70s and '80s. These watches belong to the generation with the five-digit ref. 16xxx number, which abandoned the famous “pie-pan” dials. Although flat dials were less voluminous, Rolex offered several extravagant options for ref. 16013.
Additionally, the watch was equipped with the new caliber 3035, featuring a quickset date function and an increased frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, compared to 19,800 for the caliber 1575 of the previous generation. The caliber 3035 was used from 1977 to 1988 in various models, including the Datejust, Submariner, and Sea-Dweller. In 1988, it was replaced by the legendary caliber 3135. The two-tone Datejust ref. 16013 is a choice without errors. Regardless of the preferred dial, the watch exudes the signature bold style of the '70s and '80s.
TAG Heuer S/el ref. S25706C "Ayrton Senna"
Another recognizable silhouette of the 1980s is the TAG Heuer S/el series. We chose the iconic S/el ref. S25706C “Ayrton Senna” model, worn by the legendary Formula 1 driver in the early 1990s. The S/el series appeared in 1987 as the brand’s top collection, so its roots are firmly connected to the 1980s, making it an ideal third candidate on the list. The line, named “Sport Elegance,” was designed by Eddie Schopfer as a versatile option - for diving and dining.
The main feature of the design was the bracelet. It is still considered one of the most unusual and memorable bracelets. It is massive and unique, yet very comfortable. Ayrton Senna became a TAG Heuer ambassador when he joined McLaren in 1988. He wore the S/el Digital Quartz 1/100th Chronograph ref. S25706C on a leather strap. As seen in the photo, the characteristic link element integrates perfectly into the case. This is precisely the detail by which many will remember these watches.
Ayrton Senna's Watch
Senna’s watch had a 39-millimeter two-tone case with gold links and a brown leather strap. The dial color - eggshell - softens the bright overall style. The ana-digi dial features three analog subdials and two digital displays at the bottom. Combined with the extravagant design, this makes the watch unforgettable. TAG Heuer produced this model until 1998, and the design did not change over the 11 years. Despite the long production period, finding ref. S25706C is difficult, and prices have risen, now starting at around €3,000.
Breitling Chronomat ref. 81950
Another icon of the 1980s is the legendary Breitling Chronomat, introduced in 1983. It marked the revival of Breitling's mechanical watches under the leadership of Ernest Schneider, who bought the company from Willy Breitling in 1979. Being a pilot, Schneider placed great emphasis on the brand’s aviation heritage. Therefore, the first new Chronomat model with the signature “rider” tabs was the Chronomat “Frecce Tricolore” for the Italian aerobatic team. A year later, Breitling released the Chronomat ref. 81950 for the general public.
The watch features a 39-millimeter case in steel or a combination of steel and gold. Later, a version with a fully gold bezel was added. Various dial options were available. The case is equipped with a rotating timer with four tabs, and the characteristic ribbed crown and pushers refer to aviation watches. The dial is based on the Valjoux 7750 layout, with a hundredths of a second scale and a tachymeter on the relief ring. Three subdials are placed close to the edge, creating an unusual overall impression.
Inside is the automatic chronograph Valjoux 7750 with a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and a 48-hour power reserve. Completing the look is the Rouleaux bracelet with bullet-shaped links. This bracelet inspired the modern Chronomat collection. I like its appearance - it makes the watch memorable. If the bracelet is not to your taste, the Chronomat looks great on a leather strap. Although the name Chronomat dates back to the 1940s, I associate it with this 1980s model, which set the modern era of aviation chronographs. Depending on preferences, such watches can be purchased for €3,000–4,000.
Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph
The final choice on the list is the magnificent Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph. This is another 1980s watch that stands out immediately. It became a favorite among many at WatchTested thanks to its unique appearance.
Ebel first introduced the Sport Classic Chronograph in 1982, and the watch became very popular after Don Johnson chose it as his in the series Miami Vice. Unlike the two-tone version, Johnson wore a fully gold model. Additionally, Ebel released a steel version with a white gold bezel.
The design of the watch is an amazing blend of elements. The stainless steel case measures 38 × 42 × 11 mm with a gold bezel and screws. Inside is a white dial with black Roman numerals and gold details, adding extravagance. Another distinctive feature is the signature wave bracelet with a smooth taper from 20 to 15 mm towards the clasp, loved by watch connoisseurs.
Initially, the Zenith 3019 PHC chronograph caliber was inside. In 1986 it was replaced by the updated El Primero 40.0, and later by the El Primero 400. This is an excellent movement for an iconic chronograph that became one of the most recognizable watches of the 1980s. Prices for these models start at around €2,500 and can reach €5,000 for specimens in excellent condition.
Conclusion: Five Iconic Watches of the 1980s
That’s it - five true icons of the watch world from the 1980s. These models defined the style and status of the industry during the return of mechanical watches after the quartz crisis.
However, there are many other worthy options, and I want to pass the question to you: which of these five models do you like the most, or would you choose completely different watches? Share in the comments, and we’ll return next week with a new list!