The Watches and Wonders 2024 exhibition and Geneva Watch Week are now behind us...
But now is the perfect time to look back and calmly reflect on the best watches we saw in the city. These exhibitions primarily draw attention to major brands like Rolex, Richemont Group, or LVMH. Fortunately, it wasn't just mainstream watch companies on display. Many independent watchmakers also showcased their novelties this week, and here are some of the most notable watches we saw.
Angelus Instrument de Vitesse Monopusher
Angelus is bringing back its historical style! The La Fabrique collection, introduced last year with the Chronographe Médical model, is intended to revive historical models and pay homage to iconic designs. This year's Instrument de Vitesse Monopusher Chronograph model is a stunning watch. Compact, slim, elegant, and full of charm, it relies on the original central chronograph display without additional sub-dials and a layout primarily focused on the tachymeter scale (hence the name - speed instrument). Hidden under the sapphire case back is another delicacy - the manually wound caliber A5000 with a column wheel, manufactured by La Joux-Perret, harking back to a movement once produced by THA Ebauche. Overall, a beautiful chronograph with vintage appeal, reliable performance, and sophistication.
Quick facts: 39 mm x 9.27 mm stainless steel case - Ivory dial - white or black with central chronograph and tachymeter scale - Caliber A5000, made by La Joux-Perret for Angelus, monopusher chronograph with manual winding and column wheel, 42-hour power reserve - Calfskin strap with clasp - Limited to 25 pieces per dial color - 17,100 Swiss Francs
Bovet Recital 28 Prowess 1
Undoubtedly some of the most impressive travel watches ever created and one of the highlights of the Geneva Watch Week 2024. With the Recital 28 Prowess 1 model, Bovet presents a mechanical masterpiece not only because it is one of the few watches addressing the issue of daylight saving time (DST) in a world timer, but also because it is insanely complex. In addition to the 24 rollers, each with 4 positions, its mechanism consists of 744 components, a flying tourbillon, and a perpetual calendar also presented with rollers. But the main feature of the watch is how it handles the quirks of time zones and DST, which can be adjusted by pressing the crown according to UTC, AST (American Summer Time), EAS (European and American Summer Time), and EWT (European Winter Time).
Quick facts: 46.3 x 17.85 mm Dimier “Writing Desk” case in rose gold, platinum, or polished Grade 5 titanium - Aventurine inner and outer ring, world time display and perpetual calendar on rollers - Caliber R28-70-00X, in-house movement, manual winding, flying tourbillon, world time on rollers with UTC, perpetual calendar on rollers - Alligator leather strap with folding clasp - from 650,000 Swiss Francs
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton
H. Moser & Cie continues to expand its successful concept of sporty-chic watches with an integrated bracelet - the Streamliner collection. The latest addition combines boldness, mechanical beauty, and overall consistency with the original design. The Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton model, presented in a stainless steel case, features a skeletonized dial that seamlessly matches the design of the case and bracelet, forming a harmonious ensemble. Positioned at the lower part of the dial is a minute flying tourbillon with the brand's signature double hairspring. Although I am usually not a fan of skeleton watches, this new Streamliner looks surprisingly good in metal.
Quick facts: 40 mm x 12.1 mm stainless steel case - Skeletonized dial with red gold-coated indexes and hands - Caliber HMC 814, in-house automatic tourbillon with double hairspring, 72-hour power reserve - Integrated stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp - 79,000 Swiss Francs
HYT T1 Series
After several years of ups and downs, it's always pleasing to see HYT's return. The team worked diligently on creating the new T1 series - a collection that has seen significant improvements compared to previous model generations. The design focused particularly on ergonomics: a less extravagant shape and a more wearable case, integrated lugless design, and interchangeable straps. A significant development was that, for the first time, the bellows controlling the capillary tube were hidden behind a closed dial, giving the new HYT T1 series a much more versatile design. The mechanism, combining mechanical watches and liquid technology, remains unchanged. Overall, it seems the brand's new direction could be the right one!
Quick facts: 45.3 x 17.2 mm case in titanium and black DLC or rose gold and 5N titanium - Silver, dark blue, slate, or salmon dial with no visible mechanics, time indicated by capillary tube - Caliber 501-CM (proprietary development), mechanical base with manual winding and liquid module, 72-hour power reserve - Rubber strap with clasp - 48,000 CHF in titanium or 64,000 CHF in gold/titanium
Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Annual Calendar
With its latest creation, Laurent Ferrier adds an astronomical and very current character to the classic Annual Calendar, one of the brand's most revered models. The new Classic Moon Annual Calendar is elegant, classic, and restrained, yet features exquisite details. Compared to previous models, the watch design has been altered (beveled date and month windows, elongated Roman numerals), and the double moon indicator consists of multiple layers: Murano aventurine glass engraves the moon and stars shape, Super-LumiNova makes them glow at night, and translucent petrol-blue enamel creates moon shades and phases. The same patented manual-wind movement with sophisticated decoration is installed on the back. Overall, these are very classic and elegant watches.
Quick facts: 40 mm x 12.9 mm case in stainless steel or 18k 5N red gold - Gray-blue opaline (steel model) or vertically satin-finished silver (gold model) dial - Caliber LF126.02, in-house movement, annual calendar with manual winding and moon phase indication, 80-hour power reserve - Dark gray nubuck or brown calfskin strap with clasp - 70,000 Swiss Francs in steel and 80,000 Swiss Francs in gold
Trilobe Les Matinaux L’Heure Exquise
Finally, the new edition of Trilobe Les Matinaux, and probably the most consistent version to date. This new version, named L’Heure Exquise, adds a moon phase indication, complementing the already poetic display the brand is known for. Elegant, charming, and somewhat romantic, these new Trilobe watches have won our hearts. The watches are available in titanium or gold cases with diameters of 38.5 mm or 40.5 mm, and a series of disks are used to indicate time. A new feature is the inner disk with moon phases on the lower level, and on top, a sapphire disk with stars rotates in the rhythm of seconds. The case back showcases the brand's X-centric caliber, made by Le Cercle des Horlogers and characterized by minimalism. Some of the most charming watches we saw at the exhibition, available with both blue and light blue dials.
Quick facts: 38.5 mm or 40.5 mm x 9.2 mm case in Grade 5 titanium or 18k rose gold - Grainy blue or light blue dial with three concentric disks for time display and moon phase indicator with running second sapphire disk - X-centric caliber, in-house by Le Cercle des Horlogers, automatic with micro-rotor, 48-hour power reserve - Alligator leather strap - from 14,500 Euros in titanium and 26,500 Euros in gold.