Dive watches are a necessity for many watch collectors.
They surpass standard "tool" watches, often with enhanced technical features like increased water resistance. As a result, dive watches are usually oriented towards the professionals they are intended for, namely divers. Nowadays, this leads to an instantly recognizable aesthetic where "function often precedes form." However, 50-60 years ago, dive watches were generally smaller and more restrained. A classic example is the Rolex Submariner. The watch I present to you today certainly aligns with the classic notion of the Submariner, but it doesn't copy its oft-repeated aesthetics. Meet the Milléchron Monarque M, a high-end watch that is difficult to classify into any specific niche.
Don't take the last sentence negatively. It's an interesting observation because the Monarque M adapts elements from various watch styles and effortlessly unites them into a single harmonious concept. I wouldn't call it a jack of all trades, but I would say that it doesn't choose one style to master and make its own.
Monarque M - Pure Fantasy
Founded nearly a decade ago by watch enthusiast Benjamin Chee (who also owns Celdadon and BCHH), the company Millésime, now rebranded as Milléchron, has shifted its focus towards high-end watches. The design of the Monarque M draws inspiration from mid-20th-century dive watches while incorporating modern design elements. Described by Chee as "fantasy vintage," the watch combines classic aesthetics with modern appeal. The watches are available in various color schemes - saffron, azure, gray, stealth (currently sold out), and a racing green version that I had to try.
Collaborating with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier for the production of the micro-rotor movement and Philippe Cattin for assembly, Milléchron ensures high-quality components and finishing. The watch is chronometer certified, reflecting the brand's commitment to precision and reliability. Looking at the specifications, the Monarque M is undoubtedly a dive watch. Its 42mm x 51mm x 10.4mm case made of 904L stainless steel is hand-finished with alternating matte and polished surfaces. The dial shines with bright hands and hour markers adorned with SLN. A unidirectional rotating bezel with 120 clicks allows tracking elapsed time, and a water resistance of 200m means it can withstand almost anything an amateur diver might throw at it.
Vaucher Movement
The Monarque M model is equipped with the automatic Vaucher 5401/32 movement with a micro-rotor and a 48-hour power reserve. Vaucher, known for supplying calibers to elite independent brands, guarantees the highest craftsmanship and reliability. The 5401/32 movement features a micro-rotor made of golden tungsten and massive bridges finished with traditional Geneva stripes and mother-of-pearl on the base plate. It's pleasing to look at, as expected from Vaucher. It may not be an in-house movement, but it is undoubtedly of high class and quality, which can be expected from a watch at this price (more on that later).
By default, the Monarque M comes with a natural rubber strap with a custom diamond pattern. Unfortunately, the prototype I received for review came with a strap that was too large for my wrists. So, I had to find an alternative from my strap box. Initially, I chose a beautiful nubuck strap that perfectly complemented the racing green dial. Ultimately, I leaned towards the more sporty side of the Monarque M and put them on an olive green Hydroflex from Artem Straps. Although I didn't wear the OEM strap, the rubber feels nice and flexible, and it comes with a beautifully signed deployant clasp. The clasp is made of 904L steel and features a diver's extension with a lovely internal mother-of-pearl finish.
Dive Watch with a Rich Resume
Of course, visually these watches can be called dive watches. With an instantly recognizable rotating bezel and 200-meter water resistance, these watches were designed with water immersion in mind. However, my watch has not seen water, except for the inevitable rainy Manchester weather. But thanks to the slim case, the watch feels like a great everyday companion. I don't like the term "desk diver," but here it is quite appropriate. On a leather strap, the watch looks more dressy and elegant than usual. In this regard, I would categorize them in the same class as the Rolex Submariner. I am not comparing these two watches directly, but there is some overlap in the wearing experience and what they achieve on the wrist.
Milléchron Takes the Challenge
The Monarque M watches, priced at SG$15,240 / CHF 9,950, face challenges as they come from a relatively untested brand. However, Milléchron mitigates this risk by offering a trial program that allows interested parties to test a prototype before deciding to purchase. This initiative is somewhat unique to the watch industry. Nonetheless, it is intended to instill confidence in potential buyers and should help collectors ease any buyer's remorse.
Of course, in this price segment, there is huge competition from more renowned brands. It can be difficult to justify choosing a small independent brand when you can easily buy one or two other watches from Tudor and Longines for the same price. However, if you think that way, perhaps these watches are not for you.
Not Everyday Watches, But a Worthy Contender
Owning watches that others have is quite exciting for some. I fall into this category, so I can understand them. I prefer to have something from small independent manufacturers, knowing that I am unlikely to encounter someone else wearing the same watch. Of course, quality always matters greatly, but you can rest easy when a Vaucher movement is inside. The rest of the watch's details match that quality. So if you are drawn to the stylish and understated appearance of the Monarque M, you can't go wrong. If you are tempted, take advantage of the brand's trial version to make your choice! You can learn more about Milléchron and the Monarque M on their official website.