Rolex Milsub watches are synonymous with the term "grail watch." Its rich history and distinctive features will help you understand why.
The Submariner is the world's most famous diving watch, inspiring thousands of imitations. But which of the many models stands out among the rest?
Perhaps the 6204, the first Sub model that made waves at Baselworld 1954. Or maybe it's the 6583, the Big Crown Sub, worn by Sean Connery with a tuxedo jacket.
My answer? It's not a single piece, but a whole set - those that form the variable line known as the Rolex Milsub.
James Bond may be fictional, but the British Ministry of Defence's foresight in early adopting tactical diving watches was very real. The Rolex Milsub began production as a standard model for the Ministry of Defence.
Today, they are among the rarest and most sought-after vintage sports watches in history.
Let's dive into the history of these remarkable watches. I'll start with the history of the Rolex Milsub and then move on to what sets them apart from the standard Submariner.
History of the Rolex Milsub: Swiss Watchmaking and British Defense
Rolex began its relationship with the British Ministry of Defence in 1954. They supplied the Royal Navy with the Big Crown Submariner model, reference 6538.
These watches became more famously known as the first (and perhaps definitive) James Bond watch. In 1962, Sean Connery wore these very watches in the first James Bond film "Dr. No."
Less than a decade after World War II, the Ministry of Defence already knew that Rolex was the best supplier of waterproof watches. They also knew that military-grade diving watches were inevitably the future for military diving units.
Therefore, the MOD approached Rolex to make some modifications to the Submariners they supplied.
The Birth of the Rolex Milsub
As it turned out, Rolex was mostly on the mark. The Royal Navy divers had only two pieces of feedback regarding the winding crown.
First, the spring bars on mass-produced Submariners were too weak for the knocks military divers might encounter. Since the bracelet is attached to the watch via these spring bars, a design change was necessary.
Second, the bezel was difficult to operate when divers wore gloves. The rotating bezel is used to track underwater time, also known as bottom time.
Suffice it to say, bezel usability is paramount when it comes to conserving oxygen and energy. This is especially true for MOD divers who might find themselves in a tight spot time-wise.
So, Rolex made the changes.
What Sets the Rolex Milsub Apart?
Compared to a regular Submariner, the Military Submariner is generally sturdier. It features spring bars that are soldered to the lugs. This makes them more robust and allows for the use of a NATO nylon strap.
The bezel is also more robust. A larger bezel literally overhangs the sides of the case with deep serrated edging. This allows people in thick diving gloves to easily operate the bezel.
Milsubs are also often associated with sword hands, though technically, depending on the reference, they can have either sword or Mercedes hands.
I think people tend to associate Milsubs with sword hands because nowadays, Mercedes hands are the standard. So overall, the ratio of commercial Subs with sword hands to Mercedes hands is likely much lower than the ratio for Milsubs.
But, of course, Milsubs are rare anyway.
How the Milsub Model Brought Upgrades to the Entire Submariner Family
Initially supplied by Rolex, the models bore the reference A/6538.
Seeing the benefits of the new bezel, Rolex soon upgraded all its standard Subs with this design. The Sub line, in general, is a testament to how good partnerships lead to objectively good products.
No one can test the capabilities of equipment quite like the military. Thanks to this and its pop culture status, the Sub seemed destined to become iconic.
The next Milsub reference was the 5512, although there were non-Milsub 5512s without soldered bars. The 5512 was COSC certified (as are all modern Rolex watches) and featured protection on the smaller winding crown.
Meanwhile, the 5513 Milsub reference was not COSC certified.
A distinctive feature of the Rolex Milsub 5517 was that it was issued only with sword hands, not Mercedes hands. A Milsub, in general, can have either a 15-minute or 60-minute bezel insert. However, the 5517 was issued only with a full 60-minute bezel insert.
We'll discuss more about the transition from special models to the 5517 later. This occurs in the 1970s.
T Dial
Another quality most Milsubs have is the T marking on the dial. This is a capital T circled and located directly above the waterproof indicator and just below the hand mount on the dial.
The thing is, radium, which was used to make lume, turned out to be quite hazardous. We now know that it's highly radioactive.
As a result, the Ministry of Defence recalled the spec and 5512 models. Instead of simply disposing of them, they sent them to a subcontractor who replaced the radium with tritium.
The "T" on the dial signifies that the watch was safely retrofitted. And today, it's a hallmark of a MilSub.
Milsub in the 70s
Those who know military history or are at least familiar with James Bond may know that Omega Seamaster watches have also long been associated with the Royal Navy.
The MOD is one of many chessboards where Omega and Rolex, along with NASA, play.
In the 70s, both the Special Air Service and the Special Boat Service decided to replace Seamasters with Milsubs. Thus, from the early 70s until 1979, Rolex produced around 1200 military Submariners.
It was then that the "Gladiator hands," or large swords, and the full 60-minute bezel appeared. (They also had engraved case backs). Any Milsub stamped with W10 was made specifically for the Army, and those stamped with 0552 were for the Navy.
Finally, before the 1980s, the aforementioned 5517 appeared - the only model with no commercial counterpart. This is also one of the reasons why sword hands are so strongly associated with the Milsub.
Why is the Milsub so Coveted?
There are three reasons why the Rolex Military Submariner is in such high demand.
First, they were never mass-produced, nor were they ever. There are a few beloved watch models that started this way but were released for sale due to demand. Rolex never released them even in limited runs.
Second, the slightly different visual effects are a collector's dream. Any occasion when a watch can prompt its owner to say, "It looks standard, but if you look closely...", is a dream scenario. After all, watch collectors love to be talked to.
And many Rolex enthusiasts tend to appreciate conservatism. They might want something unique but not something that strays from the realm of the classic.
Finally, the rarity of these watches makes them a grail. They are a grail for Rolex lovers, Submariner fans, military watch enthusiasts, and just collectors wanting to tick every box. There are likely no more than 1200 of them, and only hundreds have surfaced.
This is quite logical, considering military equipment often undergoes significant wear and tear.
Questions and Answers
Here are the most frequently asked questions about the Rolex Milsub!
How Much Does a Rolex Milsub Cost?
Genuine Rolex Milsub watches will definitely set you back six figures. A 1975 Milsub was sold for $268,000 at Bonham's auction. On rare occasions, they appear on secondary online markets, and if you're lucky, they will cost at least $180,000.
How Rare Are Rolex Milsub Watches?
It is reported that only about 1200 examples exist in nature. However, even fewer have surfaced.
Conclusion: Can You Acquire a Milsub?
Anything is possible, but Rolex Milsub watches are among the rarest vintage watches on the market.
You may encounter several challenges when trying to acquire them. Many watches have been practically serviced to death (army life). There is a record number of fakes. Milsubs are as rare as ice circles or solar eclipses.
And that's not to mention that you'll be lucky to find these watches for less than $200,000.
At the time of writing this article, I see zero Milsubs on eBay, zero at major auctions, and one on Chrono24 for $191,458. Did I mention that Rolex is facing a downturn in the secondary market?
My advice to you, if you truly want such a watch, is - if you have the money, bid as soon as you see them on a legitimate market.
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