Among other things, modern Zenith watches have acquired a variety of "extreme" dials over the past two decades. Recently, the Swiss watch company reintroduced the Zenith Defy Extreme model. I last recall this name in the Zenith catalog during Thierry Nataf's reign. He wasn't a great designer, but he was a charismatic showman. He didn't know what good watches looked like, but he helped implement a modern approach to Zenith's design, reaching its "zenith" under the brief leadership of the now-departed Jean-Claude Biver. Today, the Zenith Defy Extreme name returns - in a much more reasonable, yet eye-catching package aimed at enthusiasts.
Zenith developed the Defy Extreme model, equipping it with the fantastic El Primero automatic movement with a frequency of 1/100 seconds, and a transparent sapphire crystal dial. The El Primero caliber 293 in-house movement features a skeletonized bridge, allowing much of it to be seen. Similar to the Hublot Big Bang UNICO model (Zenith's sister company), the Defy Extreme dial is meant to be both legible and provide a 100% clear view of the mechanical components. This is a key style element that unites the watch, along with the geometric industrial design of the case.
The movement combines the 5 Hz (36,000 vibrations per hour) El Primero 21 movement from Zenith with a much faster 50 Hz (360,000 vibrations per hour) 1/1000 second chronograph. The chronograph consumes a lot of energy and therefore measures time only up to 60 minutes. Additionally, it needs to be wound manually, as it has too high a torque to be wound with an automatic rotor. The power reserve indicator located at the "12 o'clock" position on the dial is intended only for the chronograph and lets you know in advance whether there is enough energy in the mainspring barrel, which is used specifically for the chronograph. In a sense, the caliber 293 movement is two systems in one. First, it is a time indication system with a 5 Hz frequency, 50-hour power reserve, and automatic winding. Additionally, the movement contains a 50 Hz 60-minute chronograph with its own manual winding power source and an even higher frequency regulation system.
The best part of the chronograph (though some might consider its costliness given the engineering solutions involved) is the "flying" central chronograph hand, which is a 1/1000 second indicator. When the chronograph is running, the hand spins wildly, and watching and hearing it buzz in action is a pleasure. I also never thought that I would find nothing particularly interesting to time, where knowing the accuracy to 1/1000 of a second turned out to be more interesting than simply carrying modern El Primero. Winding the chronograph is very interesting. It is done by unscrewing the crown and turning it one way, while the mainspring winds the other way. For quality assurance, the caliber 293 El Primero movements are equipped with silicon escapements and have received COSC chronometer certifications.
If I had to criticize the design of the new generation Zenith Defy Extreme, it would simply be that it does not make a truly noticeable chord. It is designed like a good Cadillac or Lincoln. No, they may not win awards, but they are often deceptively well thought out, and they are pleasant to live with. Zenith offers many great features in these watches, from materials, movement, legibility, bracelet, etc... The result is an attractive package, even if it feels like you're acquiring an Acura or Lexus in a world where perhaps too much attention is paid to Audi or Porsche.
The Defy Extreme design won't appeal to everyone, but like the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute, it successfully competes in the category of watches craving luxury and a sporty lifestyle, with interesting mechanisms inside. I really enjoyed wearing the Defy Extreme, as despite the 45 mm case width, the watch wears very comfortably and has thoughtful ergonomics. The case thickness is about 16 mm, and the lug-to-lug distance is about 52 mm. The watch is most comfortable to wear on a rubber strap, and the package includes three wearing options. More on that later.
Zenith releases several versions of this collectible series of Defy Extreme models. The model 87.9100.9004/03.I001 features a titanium case with bead-blasting (with a matching bracelet) and some sections in 18-carat rose gold for the bezel and chronograph pushers. The hour markers and hands are also made of rose gold. The same golden tone can be transferred to the movement bridges, as well as the color of the skeletonized automatic rotor with the star-shaped Zenith logo, which can be viewed through the sapphire crystal case back. When viewed at the right angle, you can see the entire other side of the movement.
Zenith has developed a 200-meter waterproof case with a special strap locking system, which uses a small button on the underside of the case to release the strap end. It works quite well, but it's another case where watch enthusiasts won't be able to easily replace straps with their own. It is unknown how much new straps will cost and what choices Zenith offers. In this regard, Zenith may say that, although they understand people's interest in using third-party straps, they wanted each watch to work in tandem with one of the three straps included in the set, and for these watches to have a unique experience. That's true...
When you see the Zenith Defy Extreme on the included micro-bead-blasted titanium bracelet (it is done in an elegant metallic color), it's hard not to argue that Zenith was aiming for an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak bracelet (the design of which is more imitated than not at this point). But that doesn't negate the fact that it's a beautiful bracelet, the size of which is determined using screw fasteners, and it closes with a butterfly-style folding mechanism.
Zenith also offers a fabric strap with a Velcro clasp (which turned out to be too large for my wrist) and a stylized rubber strap with another type of folding mechanism - it was this one I preferred for my wrist when it came to overall comfort. Zenith has invested many functions into the Defy Extreme watch, from technical prowess to modern fashion. These watches do not yet have an established reputation in the enthusiast community, but they deserve a chance to form one. The price of the Zenith Defy Extreme watch with the reference 87.9100.9004/03.I001 is $22,000 USD. More on the Zenith website.
Necessary Data
>Brand: Zenith
>Model: Defy Extreme reference 87.9100.9004/03.I001
>Price: $22,000 USD
>Dimensions: 45 mm wide, ~16 mm thick, and ~52 mm lug-to-lug.
>When reader would wear them personally: At high-style events where other watch enthusiasts are sure to be present.
>Friend we would recommend them to first: A bold luxury watch enthusiast who enjoys mechanics and playfulness in watches.
>Best characteristic of the watch: Great combination of modern features and wearing options makes the watch versatile and artistically interesting as a high-precision mechanical timepiece with top-class design.
>Worst characteristic of the watch: The design execution seems a bit formulaic, even if it is pleasing to the eye. It is hard to make utilitarian arguments for the necessity of a 1/1000 second chronograph. The dial overall resembles many other Zenith watches and could benefit from more unique design elements combined with the Defy Extreme case shape.